Broccoli is a nice, hearty vegetable to incorporate into your garden. I reside in a Zone 9 area, with a very warm climate. While broccoli doesn't enjoy the heat of summer, it thrives during late autumn and winter. I appreciate the addition of broccoli to my fall/winter garden because it offers a different flavor and texture than a lot of the other greens I can grow in my winter garden. And, as a bonus: It's always impressive to dinner company when you inform them that the roasted broccoli was grown in your own backyard!
I've outlined by Sowing Suggestions below. Be sure to check them out if broccoli is something you would like to incorporate into your fall or winter garden.
Sow in a location that gets at least 5 hours full sun per day.
Germination: above 45 degrees F, faster if closer to 70 degrees F
Optimum temperature: 50-70 degrees F (Broccoli has better flavor when it is grown in this cooler temperature range)
Freeze-tolerant: short periods of 20-32 degrees F (like overnight)
Danger zone: temperatures above 80 degrees F
Fertile soil, rich in compost. Throw in some manure to provide Nitrogen. Well-drained soil. Can grow in slightly acidic to slightly alkaline soil, with a pH of 6.5-7.5. Try to avoid growing broccoli in the same location for two years in a row--crop rotation is good.
You can either start seedlings indoors or sow directly. I prefer direct sow, by planting 3 seeds every 18-24"(depending on variety). Once the seedlings are 2-3" tall, pluck excess plants and leave only the healthiest seedling of the 3. Broccoli plants have very shallow roots so, if transplanting seedlings, try to plant a little below the soil line (~1" deeper), especially if they are leggy (tall, skinny, flimsy). Transplant once the seedlings have at least 4 leaves.
Keep broccoli well-watered. The soil should never dry out completely. But don't water so frequently that the soil is soggy. We are in a drought right now, and get no rain, so I water about 1-2 times per week. I do this deep, infrequent watering so as to encourage the roots to reach down further and become stronger. If you water too frequently, the soil will get soggy and encourage rot.
To keep soil fertile and nutrient-rich, apply a fish emulsion or compost tea every 3-4 weeks.
First, you'll want to harvest the BIG head of broccoli--this is the main head of broccoli that grows from the top of the stalky stem of your broccoli plant. It will appear first. Harvest this head while it is still tightly bunched in the center, but starting too loosen on the outer edges--this indicates that it has grown to full size. Harvest by cutting a few inches down the stalk (at least 5") and at a slight diagonal. Cutting at a diagonal ensures that water will run off the residual stem rather than settle in it and potentially cause rot.
After the main head of broccoli has been harvested, other smaller heads of broccoli will start growing from other areas of the broccoli plant. These secondary heads aren't nearly as large as the main broccoli head, but they add up and actually have a higher yield than the primary head. I try and harvest them every few days by cutting them off.
Wash broccoli florets in cool water and allow them to dry completely, before storing them in the refrigerator. They will stay good for about a week in the fridge. I like to use a salad spinner to wash my florets, then dry on a paper towel for about an hour before transferring to the refrigerator.
*If your broccoli heads have hidden worms, you can wash them in the sink with a warm salt water solution. Just fill sink basin with warm water and add in a handful of salt, and agitate the heads to coax out the worms. Rinse, dry, and store in the fridge.
As with any home grown crop, you may experience some troubles with your broccoli. I've outlined just a few of the problems you may come across and some probable solutions. This is in no way a comprehensive list--I've only touched on a few common problems.
PROBLEM: Seedlings start to grow and emerge, but end up eaten or die after they get a few inches tall
SOLUTION: Some sort of pest or pathogen is killing your seedlings. If the seedlings appear to be growing healthily at first, then end up eaten or cut off at the soil line, there may be cutworms nibbling on them. Cutworms are small, grayish to brown worms (1" long) that curl up and hide in the dirt around plants during the day, and come out to eat them at night. Try and remove any visible cutworms and then put some sort of collar around your seedlings--plastic cups with the bottoms removed, toilet paper rolls, etc. If the seedlings are struggling to even emerge, or dying shortly after emerging, it may be a pest or pathogen within the soil and you are probably better off planting your broccoli in another location, or starting the seedlings indoors and waiting until they are stronger to transplant outside.
PROBLEM: Broccoli has little worms on it; Cabbage loopers, cabbage worms, cut/army worms, and other green caterpillars are eating holes in the broccoli foliage and hiding amongst the heads
SOLUTION: If you only see a few worms, you can pick them off by hand and squish them. If you see a lot, then you should apply BT Worm & Caterpillar Killer. BT Worm Killer is not a chemical pesticide--so it is safe to use in your organic garden. It is actually a bacteria known as Bacillus thuringiensis. This bacteria targets only a few certain species of worms/caterpillars. It has no effect on humans or beneficial insects such as lacewings, bees, or ladybugs. It kills the worms after they ingest it. When they ingest the BT, it infects their digestive system leading to an inability to eat and eventual death.
PROBLEM: Broccoli heads are very loose and open; broccoli is is suddenly getting yellow flowers
SOLUTION: Broccoli tends to perform better in a cooler temperature range. When the weather gets too warm, the broccoli heads begin to loosen up and go to flower much more quickly. In other words, broccoli will bolt if the temperature (especially soil temperature) raises above 80 degrees F. If you are having a small heat wave in winter, like 2 or 3 days of 80 degree weather, you can try and reverse the negative effects of the heat by shading your broccoli plants and cooling the soil with slow watering and by adding a thick layer of mulch. However, if it's the end of winter, it is probably time to plan a replacement for your broccoli--like some green beans!
PROBLEM: Broccoli heads look like they have darker, softer patches on them
SOLUTION: Indication of broccoli head rot. To prevent this problem, avoid overhead watering of your broccoli, as this occurs when residual moisture sits on the growing broccoli heads and creates a breeding ground for bacteria. Water around the base of the broccoli. Also, try to pick a variety of broccoli with a more dome-shaped head, so the water runs off more easily.
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